“The first stage of the pilgrims’ route to Santiago de Compostela is enough to test anyone’s resolve and belief. The long ascent out of France and over into Spain, takes you on small roads and tracks before a punishing descent into Roncesvalles. Many of the pilgrims we passed didn’t look like they would complete stage 1 let alone the next 30.” Russell Weighton, Camino de Santiago 2003